When it feels like the world has been explored from end to end, and tourist routes have become a conveyor belt, it’s time to look East. To the place where the snow-capped peaks of Ararat give way to the sun-scorched plains of Mesopotamia. Eastern Turkey isn’t about "all-inclusive" hotels. It’s about the dust of centuries on your boots, the taste of strong coffee in Assyrian courtyards, and the silence of gods on mountain summits. This is the cradle of civilization, and here i