Khinkali Explained: History, Types and How to Eat Georgia's Famous Dumplings

Few visitors leave Georgia without meeting khinkali. These plump, pleated dumplings appear on almost every menu in the country, and for Georgians they are much more than food: a plate of khinkali is a reason to gather with family and friends, and almost everyone has a favourite place to eat them. Here is what you need to know about the dish, from its mountain roots to the right way to eat it.

What is khinkali?

Khinkali (ხინკალი) is a Georgian dumpling: a round of thin dough gathered around a filling and twisted into a pleated knot on top. The classic version is filled with seasoned meat, but what makes it special is the inside. A little water is mixed into the raw filling, and as the dumpling boils, it combines with the fat from the meat to create a rich broth trapped inside the dough. That broth is the heart of khinkali.

Where does khinkali come from?

In Georgia, khinkali is closely tied to the mountain regions north of Tbilisi, such as Pshavi, Mtiuleti, Khevsureti and Tusheti. Its high fat and protein content made it ideal food for harsh winters and difficult terrain. The town of Pasanauri, on the Georgian Military Road, is often named as its home and is still famous for its khinkali.

Georgian legend tells a story, in which the dish was created to feed warriors wounded in battles with the Persians, with garlic and hot broth meant to help them recover. Either way, khinkali has become one of the clearest symbols of Georgian cuisine.

Types of khinkali

Fillings vary from region to region and from restaurant to restaurant. The main types you will meet in Georgia are:

• Mountain style (mtiuluri): the simplest and, for purists, the best. In Pasanauri, the filling can be nothing more than good, fatty beef, onion, salt and chili. In the highlands lamb is also used.

• Kalakuri ("city style"): the classic Tbilisi khinkali, usually a beef-and-pork blend seasoned with fresh herbs such as cilantro, plus chili and onion.

• Cheese: filled with farmers' cheese, sometimes blended with herbs.

• Mushroom: a popular meat-free choice.

• Potato: mashed potato, often with dill.

• Seasonal and modern versions: some dumpling houses offer nettle khinkali, and creative chefs have experimented with seafood, snails, khinkali soup and even sweet chocolate versions.

  
  

Leftover khinkali are never wasted: they are often fried in oil the next day.

Khinkali and Borjgali: The Sun on Your Plate

Borjgali (ბორჯღალი) is one of Georgia's oldest symbols: a sun with seven rotating wings, standing for the sun, eternal movement and life. It goes back to pre-Christian times and was later absorbed into Christian art. Today you will find it on Georgian passports and ID cards, on lari banknotes and coins, and on the shirts of the national rugby team, whose players are nicknamed borjgalosnebi, "those who bear the borjgali".

So what does it have to do with khinkali? Look at one from above: the round dumpling echoes the sun, and the pleats twisting around the knot form a borjgali. In Georgia's mountains, khinkali was traditionally seen as an offering to the sun, cooked on Sundays, the day of the sun, and on holidays, as a sign of the never-ending motion of life.

How to eat khinkali

Watching a first-timer tackle a plate of khinkali is a favourite Georgian pastime. Here is how to do it like a local:

1. Use your hands. Cutting khinkali with a knife and fork is considered a cardinal sin: the dough breaks and the broth ends up on the plate.

2. Add pepper. Most Georgians season their khinkali with a dusting of freshly ground black pepper, sometimes with a little salt.

3. Hold it by the knot and turn it upside down. The thick knot of dough on top works as a handle.

4. Take a small bite and sip the broth. Make a small opening in the side and drink the hot juices first. Slurping is perfectly normal: the broth is the most prized part.

5. Eat the rest around the knot. Once the broth is gone, finish the filling and dough until only the knot is left in your fingers.

What about the knot?

The doughy knot (in Georgian called kudi, "tail", or sometimes chipi, "belly button") is usually left on the plate in the cities. A popular explanation says the pile of knots shows everyone how many khinkali you managed to eat, although some Georgians laugh this off as a story told to visitors. In the countryside, for example in Tusheti and Kakheti, many people eat the knot too and see leaving it as a waste of good food.

How many is normal? Appetites vary, but khinkali is a dish people are proud to eat in quantity, and it is not unusual for a hungry guest to manage a dozen or more.

What makes good khinkali?

Good khinkali are notoriously hard to make. The dough must be strong enough to hold the broth but thin enough not to overpower the filling, and cooks spend a long time perfecting their pleating. Restaurant owners in Pasanauri say the real secret is the meat: fatty, from animals that graze only in the mountains.

Taste khinkali with ORIENTO

The best way to understand khinkali is to eat it where it was born. On our Georgia tours we visit traditional dumpling houses in Tbilisi and other cities, where you can compare mountain and city styles side by side.

Oriento Travel – Exploring the World Together.